The Cuisine and Culture of Pondicherry and Tamil Nadu

Words by Ruba

January 2025

Cin Cin led a small group on a culinary and cultural road trip through Tamil Nadu, the southernmost state of India. Often overlooked by travellers, the region is home to spectacular historical sites, rich cultural traditions, and a cuisine celebrated for its robust flavours, aromatic spices, and deep-rooted culinary heritage.

The journey began with a welcome dinner at the award-winning Avartana in Chennai, where Chef Nikhil Nagpal presents South Indian ingredients and flavours through a contemporary, inventive lens. Joining the evening was Dr. Pradeep Chakravarthy – historian and author of numerous works on Tamil culture – whose insightful talk set the tone for the days ahead.

Travelling with Cin Cin was Indian chef and cookbook author Sumeet Nair. Throughout the eight-day journey, guests enjoyed Chef Nair’s thoughtfully curated culinary experiences, including a lavish Franco–Tamil dinner hosted in a historic French colonial home and a pan–South Indian meal served in a traditional Tamil house, both in Pondicherry. Guests were also welcomed into the homes of local tastemakers for Saurashtrian-Tamil and Anglo-Indian feasts, prepared by cooks dedicated to preserving the culinary legacies of their communities.

A highlight of the trip was a three-night stay at The Bangala, a century-old heritage hotel in the heart of Chettinad. This region is home to the historic Chettiar community – merchants and bankers whose extensive travels across Southeast Asia brought home new ingredients and techniques that shaped the now-famous Chettinad cuisine. The Bangala’s renowned kitchen is at the heart of this tradition and is featured in The Bangala Table, a cookbook co-authored by Chef Nair and the formidable Meenakshi Meyyappan, the 90-year-old founder of the hotel and steward of her family’s heirloom recipes. Mrs. Meyyappan also hosted Cin Cin guests at her mansion in Karaikudi for an exclusive Chettinad dinner prepared by cooks who have served her family for generations.

The journey was filled with cooking demonstrations, banana-leaf meals, and visits to bustling local markets. Though designed around food, the itinerary was intertwined with cultural experiences that offered a more complete understanding of the region. Highlights included a rickshaw tour of Pondicherry’s historic French Quarter, a visit to the experimental township of Auroville, a private Bharatanatyam performance, an encounter with master bronze artisans in Swamimalai who practice the ancient “lost-wax” casting technique, and visits to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites—Brihadeesvara Temple in Thanjavur and the Group of Monuments at Mamallapuram. Guests came away with a deep admiration for the warmth and generosity of Tamil Nadu’s people, the richness of their culture and traditions, and the bold, unforgettable flavours of their cuisine.